Saturday, 24 November 2012

Back to basics and basic block construction

Remember my misfortune with Jenny? I have almost given her up, mostly because it's been such a long time since my friend helped me with the fitting, so I don't remember the meaning of all the lines and dots and arrows. Shame. It inspired me, however, to go back to basics and construct a basic skirt block.

A gorgeous sewing book was published last year by a Norwegian fashion designer: Mari Melilot. The book, Syboka (translates to The Sewing Book), is visually extremely appealing with gorgeous, vintage-looking photos, and the front page promises "a complete sewing school". Having said that, when I first flicked through the book (before I bought it), I got rather upset. Even though the book covers sewing from pattern construction, fitting the pattern and finishing the garments, it's in my point of view not complete as the author claims. Many of the garments sewn in the book are far from good fitted. Yet, I had hopes for my skirt block (and by the way, the instructions are the exact same as you can find at BurdaStyle for free).

The muslin to the left is the front before any adjustments. The wrinkles to the centre is quite obvius, and after consulting my book The Perfect Fit, and did a 'prominent abdomen' adjustment. The sound of it is horrible, but the outcome is quite good, as the second muslin to the right shows. 

The pictures of the back muslins aren't very good. There seems to be more wrinkles on the second muslin (right), but the excess fabric below my waist on the first muslin has been removed by a swayback adjustment. In addition, I raised the waistline, based on the tutorial from House of Marmalade, and I believe the wrinkles on the second muslin are caused by the raised waist. Most importantly, the overall fit is much better!

For the wearable version, I narrowed the skirt at the hemline around 6 cm, and the side seams needed to be adjusted. Lesson learned from that: never have a side zipper in your skirt if you're not sure about the fit! I unpicked it once, and couldn't be bothered to do it twice. The result is that the skirt is rather loose around the hips, creating strange wrinkles around the zipper (inside circle to the left) and in this picture there's also wrinkles on front of the tummy as if the skirt is too big (it acutally fits fairly well front-tummy-wise):
The arrow shows my main concern with the finalized skirt, and that is a result from the fact that my body folds. I guess that's not very unusual. Also, the body fold is enhanced by elastics from my tights and sitting. You can really see it from this picture (it also shows the visible facing, I guess that is a fabric problem):
Is boning the only soltuion? Or is it a matter of fabric choice? Should I instead have the waist seam and a waistband in 'my fold'?

I know the skirt is yet not perfect (and I mean perfect, not just good enough... I'm a perfectionista after all). The next one I make will for sure have the zipper in the back, as I'm quite sure the side seams need to be adjusted and narrowed a litte. Anyway, to make the long story longer, here's some more pictures of the skirt!

 And lastly, look how good it goes with the gorgeous Jersey with a Soft Bow my sister knitted for me:


immi said...

Wow - the outfit shown in your last photo looks superbe!!!
Next time I should try that 'prominent abdomen adjustement'... thanks for sharing!

Immi Meyer

Anonymous said...

I think it's very close to perfect! And would like to thank you - you inspired me to use a very rainy morning (during which I had planned a trip to my local fabric store for some haberdashery purchases, but really did loathe to get soaked for a bit of thread and a zipper ... I know, I'm fickle) for making my first hand-drafted skirt block.
Not quite done yet, but so far it looks promising. Thank you!

Lizzy said...

Oh! lovely jersey! I need to know about that "prominent abdomen" adjustment! I DO really have that problem!

Stephanie said...

Love your outfit with the beautiful green top. I haven't fitted a pencil skirt in ages because I don't really wear them at all. I'm more the A-line type and that seems a lot easier to fit. Looked at that Syboka as well when I was in Norway and it is a really pretty book with great styles inside, but I didn't bother buying it, because it didn't, as you say, seem very comprehensive or had anything in it I didn't already know from the copious amount of sewing books I have looked at in my life :)

mahaila said...

Your dedication to creating the perfect fit is quick inspirational. I get a little frustrated and end up with the 'just good enough fit' most of the time.

Your skirt looks great with the hand knitted top:)

frk.bustad said...

Thank you, everyone!

Immi: The adjustment is small, but gives a lot, I just added a total of 1.4 cm, but it really did the difference!

twistedyarns: I'm so glad I could inspire! I hope the result will be good!

Lizzy, I'll try to make a small post on it soon. I actually made a drawing that I wanted to post, but I totally forgot. Stay tuned!

Stephanie: I'm very grateful for the green top, although I must say I haven't worn it as much as it deserves. Probably more now with a skirt that goes well with it! With your knowledge and book collection, I bet you're better off without Syboka... it would just've annoyed you!

Mahaila, I too feel that 'just good enough fit' is the normal I end up with, so I guess that's why I have started to struggle more with my sewing, determined to figure out the perfection.

Froding said...

Hej fröken Bustad ! Hittade din blogg för ett tag sedan och den är så fin! MEN var har du tagit vägen?
Med vänlig hälsning,/ Marianne från Karlstad