Saturday, 24 November 2012

Back to basics and basic block construction

Remember my misfortune with Jenny? I have almost given her up, mostly because it's been such a long time since my friend helped me with the fitting, so I don't remember the meaning of all the lines and dots and arrows. Shame. It inspired me, however, to go back to basics and construct a basic skirt block.

A gorgeous sewing book was published last year by a Norwegian fashion designer: Mari Melilot. The book, Syboka (translates to The Sewing Book), is visually extremely appealing with gorgeous, vintage-looking photos, and the front page promises "a complete sewing school". Having said that, when I first flicked through the book (before I bought it), I got rather upset. Even though the book covers sewing from pattern construction, fitting the pattern and finishing the garments, it's in my point of view not complete as the author claims. Many of the garments sewn in the book are far from good fitted. Yet, I had hopes for my skirt block (and by the way, the instructions are the exact same as you can find at BurdaStyle for free).

The muslin to the left is the front before any adjustments. The wrinkles to the centre is quite obvius, and after consulting my book The Perfect Fit, and did a 'prominent abdomen' adjustment. The sound of it is horrible, but the outcome is quite good, as the second muslin to the right shows. 

The pictures of the back muslins aren't very good. There seems to be more wrinkles on the second muslin (right), but the excess fabric below my waist on the first muslin has been removed by a swayback adjustment. In addition, I raised the waistline, based on the tutorial from House of Marmalade, and I believe the wrinkles on the second muslin are caused by the raised waist. Most importantly, the overall fit is much better!

For the wearable version, I narrowed the skirt at the hemline around 6 cm, and the side seams needed to be adjusted. Lesson learned from that: never have a side zipper in your skirt if you're not sure about the fit! I unpicked it once, and couldn't be bothered to do it twice. The result is that the skirt is rather loose around the hips, creating strange wrinkles around the zipper (inside circle to the left) and in this picture there's also wrinkles on front of the tummy as if the skirt is too big (it acutally fits fairly well front-tummy-wise):
The arrow shows my main concern with the finalized skirt, and that is a result from the fact that my body folds. I guess that's not very unusual. Also, the body fold is enhanced by elastics from my tights and sitting. You can really see it from this picture (it also shows the visible facing, I guess that is a fabric problem):
Is boning the only soltuion? Or is it a matter of fabric choice? Should I instead have the waist seam and a waistband in 'my fold'?

I know the skirt is yet not perfect (and I mean perfect, not just good enough... I'm a perfectionista after all). The next one I make will for sure have the zipper in the back, as I'm quite sure the side seams need to be adjusted and narrowed a litte. Anyway, to make the long story longer, here's some more pictures of the skirt!

 
 And lastly, look how good it goes with the gorgeous Jersey with a Soft Bow my sister knitted for me: